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[Biocomposite Glue]
Biocomposite: a material made by combining a natural fiber or filler with a binding agent.
This bio-glue can be used as the binding agent in biocomposite recipes. It is a replacement for petroleum glues and agents, with ingredients that can be welcomed back by microbes, fungi, and soil life.
Ingrédients
- 28g starch (corn, tapioca, arrowroot, or potato, or a mix)
- 196g water
- 14g white vinegar
- 14g vegetal glycerine
- Scale
- Non-reactive cooking pot or pan
- Whisk
- Pyrex or stainless steel bowl
Composter
Weight your starch in a bowl.
Whisk in the water until fully dissolved.
Place on low heat.
Weight the vinegar and vegetable glycerine.
Add to the pot.
Continue whisking as the mixture thickens.
Once the texture becomes gelatinous and cohesive, remove from heat. (This usually takes about 5 minutes.
Let it cool completely.
Mix with your chosen composite fibers or pulps.
Add the glue to your composite, a little bit at the time.
Adjust the ratio of glue to composite depending on how much structure or flexibility your material needs.
You can conserve the cooled glue in an airtight glass jar (2-5 days).
Keep in the refrigerator.
When ready to use, whisk or stir to loosen.
[Biocomposites]
[Egg Carton Biocomposite]
Ingrédients
- Used cardboard egg cartons (cut or torn into pieces)
- Water
- Biocomposite glue*
- Blender
- Mold or surface for shaping
- Scissors
- Optional: plant/fiber additions (tea leaves, garden clippings, dried herbs)
- Optional: rolling pin
Composter
Ratio is roughly 4-10 filler : 1 biocomposite glue : 0-1 water.
Collect egg cartons and remove any plastic, tape, or coatings.
Tear or cut into small pieces of about 1-2cm for easier pulping.
If the cartons are dirty or if you want a more blended pulp, cook the fibers for 30 min or more.
Blend, mash, or knead the soaked cartons into a fibrous pulp.
You can add plant scraps or tea leaves for texture, color, or scent.
Combine pulp with your biocomposite glue.
Adjust moisture: wetter for molding or casting; drier for sheet formation.
Press into molds, spread on a flat surface, or wrap around objects/armatures.
Use a rolling pin to flatten if making sheets.
Air dry on a rack, or in a low-temperature oven if needed.
Drying time will vary depending on thickness and moisture content.
Optional finishing: sand lightly for smooth surfaces such as frames, or paint, dye, or embed seeds/fibers for further experimentation.
[Corn Husk Biocomposite]
Ingrédients
- Husks and silks of corn
- Soda Ash or Washing soda
- Biocomposite glue*
- Non-reactive crafting pot
- Water
- Blender, beater, or handbeating tools (2x4, plywood, plastic)
Composter
Cut dried corn husk and silk in small pieces (at least 1 inches).
Weight it (do not miss this step).
Soak in water for at least 1 hour or overnight.
Add corn husk to a pot (use one that is not for cooking, you can get non-reactive pots at thrift stores).
Add water (about 10g of fiber per L of water), bring to medium heat.
Measure the soda ash or washing soda in a separate container (pyrex, steel). Use (20% weight of soda ash) x (weight of dry fiber). You can get soda ash online, on paper making websites, natural dyes or soap making shops.
When measuring, always add soda ash to warm water, never the opposite.
Use a mask, ventilation, goggles, and gloves when handling soda ash.
Dissolve the soda ash by whisking.
When dissolved, add to the fiber pot and stir gently.
Keep fibers on low heat.
Cook for 2 hours or when fibers separate easily.
Strain from water and rinse multiple times to remove all soda ash.
Blend, hand beat by putting fibers between a plastic bag and knock with a 2x4, or beat with hollander.
Add some biocomposite glue to the beaten material and mix.
Press the mix in the designated mold, sculpt or flatten onto a parchemin paper.
Air dry with fan, on a rack ideally.